top of page

Part Replacement


None of the information posted here comes from a qualified mechanic. All the information relating to Shays or Pintos published on this page was gathered from Shay owners. There might very well be errors. Nothing expressed, furnished, or supplied by this Website is (or implied to be) technical advice or services, or substitute for the advice and services of a qualified mechanic. Mention of a particular vendor, Website or product does not constitute an endorsement by the Webmasters or S.O.C.I. of these. Links to organizations or companies selling merchandise or services via the Web are provided for convenience only. We make no guarantees about their services or merchandise, and are not responsible for any problems you might have with these organizations or companies. The existence of a hyperlink to their Website does not guarantee that they are still in business.

The following is an ongoing compilation of what has been stated by some Shay Owners to be replacement parts that have been a little more difficult to find than your run-of-the-mill oil filter. This list is incomplete and may contain errors or outdated references. Its purpose is mainly to set you on a track to complete your own research. When you go to the store, always bring your old part with you because there ARE variants. Thank you to all the generous Shay owners who have contributed these informations. You can also search the
Discussion Forum or use it to exchange with other Shay owners.






  • Upper radiator hose : DAYCO CURVED #70747, DAYCO FLEX #81051 or GATES #20878 (1980 Ford Pinto application) or NAPA #7809. Possible alternative : DAYCO CURVED #70960 or #70961 or DAYCO FLEX #81041 (1980 Ford Mustang application).

  • Lower radiator hose : DAYCO CURVED #70959, DAYCO FLEX #81091 or GATES #21272 (1980 Ford Mustang application) or NAPA #7296. Possible alternative: DAYCO CURVED #70654 or DAYCO FLEX #81081 (1980 Ford Pinto application).

    • Note 1: You should always take your old hoses with you to make sure you get the right ones because of all the possible variants.

    • Note 2: Flex hoses are described as an emergency alternative to molded curved radiator hoses.

  • 5/8 elbow water pump hose : DAYCO # 80400.

  • Thermostat : NAPA #266.

  • Thermostat gasket : NAPA #1064ST.

  • Fan & alternator belt : Without Power Steering - DAYCO #15430. With Power Steering - DAYCO #15530. NAPA #7403.

  • Water pump : AIRTEX #AW4005 or NAPA #58-12.

  • Air pump belt without Air Conditioning: DAYCO #09365.
    Heater shutoff valve installed in heater hose : Sears P/N 83-35062.

  • Heaters : The real thing isn't available anymore. But with a little tinkering, you might make one of these fit :

  • Coolant recovery kit : CHAMP, part # 9-1663.



  • Front Calipers : Advance Auto parts numbers 18-4070 (left) and 18-4069 (right). (1979 Pinto application)

  • Rear wheel cylinders : WAGNER #F79985 or EIS #EW34958. (1960-80 Ford application)

  • Flex hose going to front calipers : RAYBESTOS #BH36743 or NAPA #36743.

  • Flex hose going to differential : If you have a "Y" type fitting on the differential-end of your hose, it's a RAYBESTOS #BH36710 from a 1975 to 1980 Ford Granada. If you have a "T" type fitting on the differential-end of your hose, it's a RAYBESTOS #BH36829 from a 1980 +  Ford Fairmount / Mustang. NAPA #36833.

  • Steel brake linesNAPA #813 & 1244.


  • Fuel pump : NAPA #M6748 or FUP B0118P

  • Fuel filter : NAPA #3293.

  • Gas Cap : STANT #10705 fit an 1985 Shay.

  • Fuel sending unit 35-240 Ohm type : Moeller Marine, Part # 035722-10 Fuel sending unit at West Marine. (Tip from Bob Hillman)

  • The gas tank was made to measure for the Shay. There are no known equivalent replacement.


  • Ignition wire set : NAPA #700354

  • Timing belt : DAYCO #95014 or NAPA #250014.

  • Throttle cable : Stock Ford # 1FZ 9A758C which would fit a 1971-73 Pinto 1600 cc (so recommends the Modern A Assembly Manual). For his part, one owner didn't find the 36 inch long cable he was looking for in the parts inventory of his Ford dealer. He says : «I ordered one from GREEN's Obsolete Ford Parts using the parts number on the bulletin board...Wrong number! Got a short cable that would be in too big a bind to last very long.» Gary Wood found Universal throttle cables at these two vendors 1 + 2 .


  • Wiper blades : Owners having had to replace wiper blades report having bought replacement blade ANCO # 20-9. However, they had to adjust the blade arm in almost as far as it will go. This seems to work better than if you just replace the rubber, being not as loose.

  • Pedal pads : They are from the 1979 and 1980 Pinto and the Ford Fairmont.

  • Carpets : Model A carpets won't fit. This is what Ed Cobble did: «My carpet was badly discolored and needed replacing. I carefully removed the kick panel and floorboard carpet, and used it as a pattern for cutting new pieces. I went to a local carpet outlet, and was surprised to find that they had nylon carpet in black. This was carpet intended for use in a house, but it worked fine in «Mabel». It cost about $5 a foot, and was 8' wide. I bought a 6' length, and had plenty left over. After I cut the new carpet, using the old pieces as a pattern, I took the kick panel pieces back to the store and had them put binding around the edges. Cost $1 a foot. Looks great and costed a total of $50.


  • Shock absorbers : These aren't the original parts but they adapt well and seem to give a good ride: Fronts - Monroe HD Gas-Matics #20814 or NAPA #94055 / Rears - Monroe HD Gas-Matics #5803 or #20822gm. Someone else has mentionned Monroe Max-Air #MA-802.

  • Steering column bearings : The upper is available from Ford Part # F23Z-3517-B and the lower is available from a company that buys Ford discontinued stock at Part # D1FZ3517A. What's not available is the rubber sleeve it fits in.


  • Differential gasket : NAPA #P27609TC

  • Universal joints : The brand from O'Reilly's is «Precision» part # 369. It has grease fittings.


  • Headlight switch : NAPA part # HL6617. This is a General Motors part.

  • Tail and cowl lights : They can be replaced with reproduction Model A units (purchased from Mac's Auto Parts or Bratton's).



  • In 2003, Regal Roadsters said that they have been able to help a number of owners with parts, upgrades and accessories for their Shay and Camelot T-BIRDS.




Radiator logo : After you've drilled out the 2 rivets holding the Shay nameplate, you are left with two small holes flanking a large center hole. A real Model A logo will not cover everything. In 2000, it was possible to buy from a Ford dealership, a stick-on logo used on a late-model Escort's trunk. Be sure to get it right the first time because you won't be able to unstick it!


Crank hole cover : You have to remove the chrome radiator shell to fit one. Why not take the opportunity to paint the grill black? It makes a difference.


Hub caps : Reeal Model A ones with the Ford script just snap in place. You have to rebend the little holding tabs so they have a sharper angle in the middle, since those caps tend to want to pop off because of wheel vibration.


Headlamps : This is the most satisfying part of the conversion. You'll have to use your old Dietz headlight mounting bolts (Model A ones are not long enough) and flexible stainless steel wire conduits. The Model A headlamps disassemble completely. You don't have to remove the lone screw in the very back of the shell. At one point, you'll have to separate the reflector from the shell. It's held in place by two bent tabs. Be careful not to unbend them too much because they can break.


Cowl lamps : Not that easy or cheap, but the result it well worth it. With your real Model A Cowl Lights, you should order Cowl Light Mounting Brackets, new grommets and a Cowl Light Turn Signal Adapter Kit. Unplug the 3 wires under the dash. Unscrew and take off the original «lollypop cowl light» head from its arm. This arm is glued in place inside the cowl with a strip of  fiberglass mat which you first have to remove, being careful not to damage the cowl. Before pulling the assembly out toward the interior, cut out the grommet. Glue in the new Cowl Light Mounting Brackets with a fiberglass mat. Make sure it settles in the correct angle by test fitting the Cowl Light Arm to it and holding it perpendicular to the car's center line untill the fibreglass firms up. Trim a bit out of the back of the grommet because it doesn't spread wide enough to accomodate the thickness of the fiberglass cowl panel. Then you have to glue the grommet to the hole in the cowl. Fit the Cowl Light and place a star-shapped lock washer between it and the Mounting Bracket in order to minimize swiveling.


Gas cap : On the cowl, you might have a black or chrome plastic cover over the windshield washer fluid spouts. You can make a false gas tank filler neck out of a cut-down paint spray can's cap, on top of which you can glue a real 1930-31 gas cap (the 1928-29 wasn't of a large enough diameter) and drill two holes in the back to allow the washer fluid to pass.


Tail lights : Real Model A stainless steel tail lights almost screw straight onto the Shay brackets. To be safer, you should opt for an all red lens instead of an amber & red lens because, in the latter case, when you brake, only the amber lens will light up and people following you might be confused as to what this means...


Bumper clamps with blue inserts : They just bolt into place. Note that they will space the bumper bars about 1/16th of an inch farther apart than the Shay clamp. This means that the back clamps won't grip the bars as

completely as they should, requiring perhaps that you change them also. A nice touch would also be to add center bumper clamps.

Hood Latches : The Shay's are 1930-1931 Ford hood latches which have two holes. If you try the 1928-1929 they will not fit because they are fitted with three screw holes instead of two. They are available in chrome or a black painted finish (A-16750 is the part number in most Model A replacement parts catalogs and only the suffix letters will change to indicate chrome or painted finish). Don't order the bolts that are supplied by the Model A parts catalogs because they will not fit (way too short for the Shay body). If you replace the bolts, nuts and lock washers use stainless steel which can be gotten at a hardware store. Bring an old one to the hardware store to match it up.



Have these few examples kindled your interest?


You're in luck!

The following PDF document was drafted by Reggie Foote in late 2008 and it lists MUCH MORE Model A parts

that could be adapted to fit a Shay or Camelot Roadster : ModelAPartsAdaption.pdf


bottom of page